A retired racing greyhound has probably never been in a house before and things will be strange. The sounds, smells, shadows are all new to it. Initially, your greyhound will probably be confused by the new environment and will not know what is appropriate behavior. It may stare ahead and seem unresponsive, or the dog may be tense and possibly withdrawn. This is typical greyhound stress behavior. Remember it is undergoing stress adjusting to its new environment. Unless completely terrified, greyhounds frequently exhibit very subtle signs of stress which may go unnoticed. It is normal for a new dog to be afraid at first.

Greyhounds are used to living in crates where they feel safe and secure. Frequently, the use of a crate can ease the transition for a new dog. The National Greyhound Foundation strongly recommends that you invest in one and become familiar with its correct and appropriate use. Your dog is use to being inactive for long periods, so leaving your dog to go to work or tend to other activities in not a problem. They may, however, become very insecure if let with the run of the house when no one is around. Remember while on the track, they have been confined to their crates when not involved in purposeful activities. Again the use of a crate for the dog while you are out can ease the transition for both the dog and the owner. If you are going to be gone for the day, be sure to leave fresh water for your greyhound. If the dog is left in a crate there are various ways to attach a water pail to the side of the crate so it cannot tip over when your greyhound is turning around or moving. Crates are available from a wide variety of kennel supply companies and should be large enough for the dog to comfortably stand and turn around.

On the track greyhounds live regimented, scheduled lives. Your dog will adjust more easily if you establish a schedule for feeding and walking and stick to it. Time portion controlled feeding. Remember that the hand that trains is the hand that feeds. Typically, your dog will start bonding at feeding time. Although others in the family may want to share in the feeding, initially it is best for one person to do the feeding. Time duty trips close to feeding time, usually within an hour before.

Feed twice a day with good quality dog food, some oil and table scraps but avoid dog food that is high in fat and protein. On the track your greyhound has been fed a high protein diet designed to support great bursts of energy. Although is may be suitable for racing, diet too high in fat and protein is hard on your dogs kidneys, contributes to diarrhea and is potentially harmful as your dog gets older and less active.

Although virtually all retired greyhounds are fundamentally sound, they may get diarrhea as a result of changes in food or as a stress reaction. Brief periods of stress induced colitis is not uncommon in greyhounds making the transition into a new environment. These episodes may last from a few days to a few months depending on the dog. Make changes in your greyhounds diet gradually and consult your veterinarian if loose stools persist for more than a few days.

Because greyhounds are kenneled with a large number of other dogs and the population is highly transient, it is very likely that your dog has whipworm or roundworms or tapeworms or all three. Despite the best efforts of even the best kennels, one infected dog can be the source of contamination for the whole kennel unless all of the dogs are quarantined all of the time. Bring a stool sample to the vet with your dog. All of these parasites are easily treated but may require some persistence.

It has been our experience that greyhounds coming from the track have not been infected with heartworm. We have no idea what combination of routine medications might account for this phenomenon; it certainly is not because there are no mosquitos at the track. Nonetheless, your dog should have a blood test and be placed on preventive heartworm medication prescribed by your veterinarian.

Greyhounds have no anatomical fat layer which in most other breeds acts, in part, as a filter for toxins. Commercially available flea collars should never be used on a greyhound. The ingredients that kill the fleas penetrate the dog's skin and enter the spinal column resulting in serious illness and possibly death. There are a number of herbal flea repellant products available that can be used as an alternative, and many people have successfully controlled fleas with a spray of 1/3 Avon Skin So Soft and 2/3 water.

Greyhounds are also especially sensitive to barbiturate based anesthesia and can be easily over drugged resulting in the best cases in prolonged recovery of consciousness, and heart failure and death in the worst. Your veterinarian should be aware of this tendency before conducting any procedure that requires anesthesia.

Greyhounds from the track do not know what traffic is, and may be easily distracted by the new sights and sounds in its new environment. Your dog's safety and its life depend on your wisdom, care and understanding. Never allow the dog loose where it might catch sight of something to chase across traffic.

Your greyhound is essentially a puppy at heart and a runner. Unlike other breeds, they rely mostly on sight and cannot easily find their way back as scent oriented puppies can. Do not let it loose where it can loose sight of you or you of the dog. You will not be able to catch your greyhound if it starts to run, so do not let it loose where it can escape even unintentionally.

With patience, consistency and practice, greyhounds can be taught typical obedience commands such a sit, stay, heel, down and come. They are anxious to please, but they may surprise you with their quiet independence. They are used to a leash, love to walk and will learn to heel quickly. Most greyhounds do not know how to sit, climb stairs or play games. With time they can learn all of these things.

The most important command, return when called, is also the most difficult to teach any dog. Good books are available on dog obedience and training classes are available - contact us for information on greyhound training and/or referral to a qualified trainer in your area. Do not let your greyhound loose in an unfenced area until you are absolutely certain it will return on command and be especially careful in any area where traffic and visual distractions can effect your control of your dog.

Greyhounds from the track are "crate trained" which means that they will not soil their crate unless they are very ill and cannot control themselves. They can make the transition from their crate to a new home with a watchful eye from you and a little patience. Make sure that the dog has an opportunity to thoroughly relieve itself before entering a new home. When it is duty time, let your greyhound loose only if you have a safe, enclosed area. Otherwise, use an 8' lead and training collar (a chain or web slip collar that the dog cannot slip over its head). After your dog has relieved itself, give it lots of praise followed by its regular feeding. With this sequence of activities the dog will learn to please you, stay with you and know that it will be rewarded for acceptable behavior.

Occasionally, after a greyhound has been in a new home for some time and begins to relax into its new role as a pet, it may break house training. Apparently the dog becomes confused when it suddenly makes the shift from a working dog to your pet. Patient, consistent reinforcement of the rules will quickly solve the problem if it occurs.

At some point after entering a new home, the dog will pick a spot to lie down (on an old blanket or someplace it feels relatively safe). Let it remain quiet unless it comes to you. Be patient, gentle, speak soft, soothing, one word assurances. Speak "NO" more strongly for unacceptable behavior.

If you do not want the dog in certain rooms use your hand as a traffic cop and say firmly but gently "NO", and stay that way until the dog gets the message. Consistency, repetition and softness are the keys to successful training. Greyhounds like comfort and will make themselves at home on the sofa or bed if permitted. If you do not want to share every soft surface in the house with your dog, start immediately to block it from those places and show it where it is acceptable. Please be consistent; a dog cannot differentiate between when it is alright to get on the bed and when it is not.

Note that the literature suggests that training is accelerated and behavior enhanced when the dog shares the Master/Mistress's bedroom. You are the alpha figure and the bedroom is your den. This Master/Mistress is also preferably the feeder.

If you let your new greyhound into the bedroom, it will quickly settle down. Your closeness and scent are a source of security in a bewildering, new environment. Remember, however, once you have allowed the dog into the bedroom, you are committed. Like all learned behavior, your dog will respond and will expect to be allowed to continue the behavior.

If the dog is not allowed into the bedroom, please keep it nearby and develop it's confidence with soft words of assurance.

In spite of their early training for the race track, greyhounds love people, in fact more than most breeds, and tend to be quite sociable. They have been handled a great deal during their early years by dog walkers, trainers, veterinarians and others. Many trainers are women who bring their children to work, so the dogs frequently have been exposed to children of all ages.

Generally, greyhounds are quizzical, sometimes shy, very sensitive and surprisingly gentle. They possess superior intelligence, and can exhibit quiet and surprising independence. These are not animals whose spirit have been broken by their training or racing experience. Because of their early training, retired greyhounds have never had the opportunity to really be a puppy and may need to act out some puppy behavior, like chewing, which they typically quickly outgrow.

They have never been exposed to other breeds of dogs or cats, so they know other greyhounds only, and may be perplexed, frightened or simply ignore other breeds. They do not know cats. Greyhounds do not know how to defend themselves except by flight and will often "freeze" if attacked.

Greyhounds are used to traveling and adapt quickly to riding in cars.

Greyhounds do not typically bite but sometimes show affection as a wolf does with mouth agape, gently grasping. They will lick your hand, too. They show affection with their whole body and may rub up like a cat or lean against you.

Greyhounds have no fat layer on their bodies which makes them sensitive to winter cold or rain. If outside for more than a short time in bad weather, they should be protected with a coat. No dog should be left outside in the cold.

Greyhounds are not barkers by nature, but will bark if excited or trying to tell you something like needing to go out.

Your greyhound may be perplexed by its reflection in mirrors, fireplace glass, French doors and the like. Let it explore.

Greyhounds love rawhide bones but may not know how to hold them at first. Because their diet is closely controlled while they are racing and consists of mostly soft food, your dog's teeth may be stained and have built up tartar needed to be cleaned by the veterinarian.

A new dog may startle easily at first - don't sneak up on your dog from behind, come from the front. Speak softly. It will always hear you unless it is asleep.

If you do not want me in a certain room use your hand as a traffic cop and say firmly but gently "no". Stay that way until I get the message. Repetition and softness are the keys to my learning.

I like comfort, so start now to block me from the sofa if you do not want me on it and show me where to lie, on what soft surface.

Mirrors, fireplace glass, French doors reflect my image. This may perplex me - "who is this other dog?" Let me explore.

Time my feeding (portion feeding) and remember the hand that trains is the hand that feeds. I will also start bonding at feeding time, so others may want to share in this at first but it is best for one person eventually to do the feeding. Time my duty trips close to mealtime (usually within one hour before).

Feed twice a day with high quality dog food, some oil and table scraps. I may startle easily at first - don't sneak up, come from the front. I'd love a big rawhide bone for my teeth. You may have to show me how to hold it.

Speak softly. I'll always hear you unless I am asleep.

(Depending on space, area, experience, etc. the following comments are suggestions for starting out.)

I may be very afraid the first few nights. The sounds, smells, shadows are all new to me. I may fuss. Reassure me with words and your closeness.

If you let me into your bedroom, I'll quickly settle down. Your closeness and scent are my security in this bewildering environment. Remember, once you allow this you have committed. Like all learned behavior this is how I'll respond and what I will expect to be allowed to do.

If not allowed in your bedroom, please keep me nearby and develop my confidence with soft words of assurance.

At first I may stare ahead and seem unresponsive. Remember, I'm undergoing stress adjusting as you probably are too. Quiet and calm is the way to go. A light and gentle message all over (paws and all) with soothing words is great for both of us (try not to pat).

When it is duty time, let me loose if this is safe in an enclosed area. Otherwise, use an 8 foot leather lead and training collar (chain). After I have done my "duty" praise me with "good", a light pat and "let's go eat". I am beginning to learn to please you and stay with you and know that you will reward me for acceptable behavior.

For athletes extras are rarely allowed. I'll fatten up a little on my own and will probably need to when I first come to you. But remember, overfeeding causes problems later on and will be harmful to me.

Underfeeding is also harmful and can result not only in physical problems but in behavior problems (such as stealing food). A good rule of thumb for weight is that you should be able to feel my ribs but not see them. Also, the veterinarian you should take me to soon after you bring me home, can advise you as to the amount of weight I should or should not gain and can further advise you on amounts of food I should receive daily.

If I am asleep, please don't startle me. I may make a sassy "grumph" as I would to my kennel mate. Over time I'll adjust to a soft intrusion.

I'm a puppy at heart and a runner (very swift). Unlike other breeds I rely mostly on sight. I cannot easily find my way back as scent oriented pups can, so do not let me loose where I may loose sight of you or you of me. You will not be able to catch me if a start to run so do not let me loose where I can escape, even unintentionally.

I don't know what traffic is. I'll be easily distracted by all the sights and sounds in my new world. My safety and my life depend on your wisdom, care and understanding. Never allow me loose where I might chase across traffic.

Ordinarily a dog is trained to heel, sit, stay, down and recall (the most difficult). I shall try to be a polite dog if you teach me. The most important is to have me return to you after release no matter where we are. Good books are available on training or I may be taken to "obedience classes" - consult my veterinarian.

How to teach a 35 mile per hour (50-60 lb.) puppy recall. Keep me on lead and collar at all times when in the open and when training (playtime is another thing). I'll gradually leave "high jinks" behind though the "flight instinct" is prevalent and training me may be hard at first because of the flood of information I'm trying to sort out. It is helpful to whistle or call me whenever I am fed so that I associate your call with the reward of food. Eventually, the reward of praise is sufficient. Do not let me loose in an unfenced area until you are absolutely sure I will return on call.